When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, situated prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.
This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely shocked.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.
However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.
It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.
The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.
“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.
Lina is a seasoned casino reviewer with over a decade of experience in the gambling industry.